“Fashion is like sex,” Alessandro Michele said of his show last night, titled Gucci Orgasmique.
The philosophical show notes seemed to pose interesting questions borrowed from Michel Foucault: “Can fashion [disengage the pressure of social normativity]? Can it offer itself an instrument of resistance?” The answer was also there in writing: “The line to cross is thin and hazardous.”
The second act of Michele’s show — for him, fashion shows are akin to cinema — had a perverse sense of pleasure, not seen since the days when Tom Ford lit the fuse of Gucci’s sex bomb in the ‘90s. Madonna’s “Justify My Love” played over and over. Models carried whips, in both as a nod to Gucci’s equestrian roots and to BDSM culture. Generally speaking, the clothes were Michele’s sexiest ever.
. Michele served up monogram G-strings as well as equally seductive big bloomers worn under sheer skirts. It was kinkyThere was all the wide-legged, wide-lapelled 70s tailoring, too — though this time it wasn’t laden with 21st century sparkle and sequins, just neatly refined in deliciously bold colours. Like Ford, Alessandro grew up in the 70s, so it’s only natural that the period informs his notion of a sartorial ideal.
As the closing show of a week in which designers have explored simplicity and directness, Gucci SS20’s vision was in sync with this approach. “I decided to subtract some things and remove some things,” he said, echoing Coco Chanel’s mantra to always remove the last thing you put on before leaving the house. “How can you say that a symphony is more beautiful than a piano solo?”
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