You need to take a picture of some big-bellied Jamaicans because people in the States think we're all skinny and hungry,' bus driver Peter Holland tells me. He's waiting for his breakfast at Anty's Homestyle Cooking, a blue plywood shack with a hand-painted sign on a dusty street in downtown Kingston, the capital of Jamaica. It's six o'clock in the morning, and Anty's is already busy.
. The saltfish, an increasingly expensive import, is used sparingly as an accent. The star of Ellington's dish is the ackee, which she takes from the prolific trees in her yard. She explains that the fruit, which is poisonous until ripened, can be harvested once its red pods have burst, revealing lobes of creased yellow flesh surrounding shiny black seeds.
The spread is brimming with robust dishes, and I pile my plate high. I try mackerel rundown, a stew of pickled fish and aromatics that's reduced, or"run down," until it's creamy and flavorful. It goes well with a savory side dish of. Over the course of my week in Jamaica, I'll eat this spinachlike green in everything from sautés to quiches, but here I have it simply steamed with thyme and Scotch bonnets.
The Jamaican focus on natural eating is strongest among Rastafarians, adherents of a religion based on black empowerment that sprung up in Kingston's ghettos in the 1930s. The movement originated a meat-free, salt-free cuisine called Ital, rooted in Rasta interpretations of the Old Testament.
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