Restaurant critic Mike Sutter recalls some of the city’s best service. The food was rich and creative food, with South Texas flavor.
An airport hotel restaurant run by a caterer? My expectations were modest at best. But Lazo surprised me across three visits for a recent review, with some of the city’s best service, and the food was rich and creative, with South Texas flavor and character cultivated by the Strange family’s 70 years in the hospitality game and new energy from chef Sarah R. Myles.
Red snapper with corn maque choux, haricots vert and poached shrimp at Lazo with Don Strange at the Estancia del Norte hotel in San Antonio. The restaurant closed recently.Braised beef short-rib with white tablecloth bordelaise; roasted red snapper with poached Gulf shrimp and corn maque choux; gumbo with real bayou swagger; and the yeast-and-feast revelation of Gaga’s Famous Bread, a a Strange family tradition since the founding of the company in 1952.
A few years in the making, Lazo finally opened for dinner in May. Why did it last less than six months? Conversations with Estancia del Norte managing member Charles Leddy and Don Strange of Texas CEO Brian Strange both struck similar themes: There just wasn’t enough momentum to make it sustainable. Strange described Lazo as “a big leap of faith for everybody,” especially an operation accustomed to high-end catering for hire. “The catering and restaurant world look similar, but they’re completely different animals,” he said.
Lazo with Don Strange, the recently closed restaurant at the Estancia del Norte hotel in San Antonio.The company’s not closing the door on future restaurant projects, he said. But in the meantime, they’ll lean into the holiday season with bookings already starting to stack up.
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