WWD revisits Armani's 1979 interview on fashion paradoxes and mimicry ahead of his spring 2025 'One Night Only' show in New York on Oct. 17.
opened up about the doubts he faced during an interview with WWD. Despite acclaim for his collection with strapless blazers and inventive proportions, Armani described the backstage chaos as a “nightmare,” with even his partner, Sergio Galeotti, doubting the show’s success. Still, Armani was able to see a subtle shift in the definition of “chic,” moving toward more precisely tailored designs infused with a hint of humor.
Through the entire process of putting the collection together, Armani says he felt a certain confidence — more than in previous collections. “I realized that the idea of chic is changing,” he says, slowly sipping a small cup of very black espresso. “Modern chic has nothing to do with old chic. Modern chic has nothing to do with a woman wearing a crepe de chine blouse with a matching bow at the neck.
Once out of the classroom, Armani became an assistant menswear buyer for the Italian department store chain La Rinascente, which is roughly akin to a mix of Macy’s and Woolworth’s. After years there, Armani moved to Cerrutti, where he designed men’s clothes. In 1973, Armani met Sergio Galleotti, and with Galeotti and one harried secretary, his Armani label was christened. He has been churning out menswear since — building a big business and reputation on classicism with a twist.
“I think what happened is that … paradox appeals to me now,” he says. “l love to take elements out of their element: to take existing forms and then take them out of their context. I think that is probably the direction of modern fashion. To take a fresh look at things rather than accepting the acceptable.”
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