A new guard of producers is resuscitating the island's native grapes—and putting the ancient winemaking region back on the map.
Viticulture has thrived on Crete for thousands of years, but for most of the 20th century, mass production dominated the wine industry on Greece’s largest island. Phylloxera didn’t hit there until the late 1970s—almost a century after it ravaged continental European vineyards—and the blight served as a much-needed reset. In the 1980s and ’90s, high-yielding grapes like vilana were planted.
Where there’s great wine, there tends to be great food. Cretan meals typically start with dakos; barley rusks topped with tomatoes, salty cheese, oregano, and a healthy wallop of olive oil. Mid-20th-century research into Crete’s cuisine is the basis for the life-affirming Mediterranean diet, which means seafood, meat, and snails from the island’s mountainous terrain, and plenty of fresh produce, grains, and legumes. Of course, it all pairs perfectly with the local vinous offerings.
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