See every look from the GCDS fall 2022 collection:
The GCDS show was one of Milan’s best attended. Dua Lipa’s stylist sat front row—her client was recently seen wearing one of the brand’s teensy bras—and cool indie magazine editors crushed into seats. Still, Giuliano Calza’s brand chafes with the old school who see him more as a flighty cool kid and less of a designer in the Italian sartorial tradition.
Some of the criticism is valid; Calza’s construction is middling at best. But his spirit is what has catapulted his brand, founded with his brother, to international success. Ultimately these are clothes people wear; how much can you say that for some of fashion’s other high-minded brands? So what of the garb this season? “It looks like virtual clothing,” an editor friend cheered as we were whisked backstage to meet Calza. She was talking about vinyl coat gowns that closed the show, their shapes almost too exaggerated to seem real. The other surreal piece was a shocking pink dress made of hair extensions in collaboration with Charlie Le Mindu.and haunting demon women with a tough verve. Oh, and Hello Kitty! And Wolford bodystockings! The show was like an Instagram feed come to life, ideas smushed together in a way that evades logic but represents fun to a new generation of power users and power dressers. Calza speaks their language of highfalutin randomness: just look at the sales sheet for proof.
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