A tomato and cheese soufflé for sharing, sole cooked in brown butter with saffron and preserved lemon, and crunchy sesame crepe rolls
Photograph: Louise Hagger/The Guardian. Food styling: Emily Kydd. Prop styling: Jennifer Kay. Food styling assistant: Kristine Jakobsson.t’s a stereotype, I know, but “traditional French cooking” can still seem a bit intimidating. Those tall white chefs’ hats! Those grand-sounding recipe names! Those fancy techniques for making all sorts of pastry! It can all feel rather exclusive, but in reality it’s nothing of the sort.
Whisk the egg whites to stiff peaks, then stir a third of them into the souffle base to loosen it a little. Stir in the gruyere, the remaining teaspoon of fennel seeds and the chives, then, with a spatula, gently fold in the remaining egg whites – the key word here is “gentle”; the aim at this stage is to knock out as little air as possible.
Put the flour on a tray, mix in a quarter-teaspoon of salt and a generous grind of pepper, then firmly press both sides of the fish into the flour mix so it gets well coated. Spoon the remaining flour on top of the fish and press it on to help it stick. of olive oil and 60g butter, and leave to melt and then cook for two to three minutes, until the butter is lightly browned and smells nutty. Return the fish to the pan, take off the heat and, using a spoon, baste the fish a few times in the hot fat.
According to legend, these are the accidental invention of Marie-Catherine Cornic, a French home cook in late 19th-century Brittany. The story goes that Cornic inadvertently left a crepe on the heat for so long that it hardened into a light, crisp, buttery biscuit. In France, they’re usually eaten either as they are or crumbled over ice-cream. We’ve added sesame seeds, to make them slightly sturdier. Once made, they’ll keep well in an airtight container for up to three days.
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