From sea to plate in Toyama: a journey in search of sushi's origins

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From sea to plate in Toyama: a journey in search of sushi's origins
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Follow the journey of some of Japan's finest sushi with new boat tours and gourmet dining in Toyama.

He moves like a dancer, light-footed and nimble, gliding along the polished expanse of the wooden bar area. Naruki Takimoto, chef-patron at his eponymous sushi restaurant in Himi city, is slicing fish for mytuna and brushes soy sauce over shrimp, handling morsels as delicately as precious gems. And in a way they are, because Toyama Bay’s fish is considered the crown jewel of the seas.

That is, until the next morning. Rising in darkness, my guide, Kyoko Takano, and I drive down to the pier by Toyama’s New Port. Today we’re going glass shrimp fishing. A cluster of small restaurants and a fish auction hall sit in stillness; by the time we return in a few hours it’ll be buzzing with market agents and grocery buyers. But for now there is nothing but the warm glow of boats huddled by the dock and stoic herons watching from the rocks.

After another silent hour, as the sun is beginning to burn off the cloudy veil obscuring the nearby mountains, nets are slowly reeled up. Looking over the edge of the boat, I see a glinting mass of pink and silver. The captain scoops up a handful, then holds out a single shrimp, inviting me to taste its sweet freshness. In the light of morning, it shimmers iridescent, pearl-like — my own precious gem from Toyama Bay.

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