Forget tourist-beset, chintzy old Europe and shuffling through yet another overblown palace. This is Europe, but not as guidebooks imagine it. The real deal, and right up to the minute.
Hamburg is one of Europe’s most rapidly changing cities, especially on its spectacularly redeveloped waterfront. Small wonder Germans vote it the best place for a visit.
You won’t find much obvious history. Hamburg is a millennium years old but was heavily bombed during World War II. Only 10 per cent of its structures survived. First, visit Speicherstadt for background. In the 19th century, this was Hamburg’s cutting-edge, fast-changing waterfront district.Now Speicherstadt is World Heritage listed for its enormous brick warehouses, which sport a whimsy of pseudo-Gothic turrets and gables. Canal bridges make for striking vantage points, especially at sunset, when canal-scapes of red brick glow.
Speicherstadt has hipster buzz, but right next door is Hamburg’s newest waterfront, and Europe’s largest inner-city development project. Since it was launched in 2000, HafenCity has increased central Hamburg’s footprint by a whopping 40 per cent and more firmly connected the city with the Elbe River.
This is cool new Europe, not tourist-beset, chintzy old Europe. Instead of eating cream cake in yet another predictable old-town square, you can have cocktails at a beach bar that gazes towards shipping terminals. Also on the way is Germany’s tallest wooden building and a new cruise terminal that links to a hotel, shops and an underground bus station.
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