Instagram loves it. Magazines love it. Pinterest loves it. Chefs and growers around the world are collaborating to produce a creamy, spicy, limey, reasonable facsimile of the dish the Aztecs invented 10 millennia ago.
When avocado toast captured the taste buds and bank accounts of many locals in the mid-2010s, it made perfect sense. Carefully sliced avocado on olive oil-sprinkled starch appealed to San Francisco’s many vegans, vegetarians, animal welfare advocates, fitness buffs, wellness practitioners and the eating disordered, who find a few triangles of mushy bread easier going down or back up than, say, a Porterhouse.
But sometime around 2019, the backlash started. Besides being fattening, avocados, it turns out, are not so sustainable. They have a short shelf life; they tax water supplies in the countries that produce them on a commercial scale; they are hard on the soil; and in Mexico, where worldwide demand for the fruit has led to an increase in illegal farming, they contribute to deforestation.
The pros: The garden pea doesn’t suck up too much water; it has a low carbon footprint; and, as long as pesticides are minimized, it is gentle on the land. The cons: Peas are a cold weather crop and not grown on a commercial scale in California, so in a year or two someone is liable to calculate the environmental cost of transporting frozen peas from Canada and decide we need a new Instagram-worthy chunky spread for our toast.
Buying healthy, sustainable meals at any price will likely get more difficult. Being picky may not be an option in the near future. There are already plenty of Instagram photos of grubs, shrubs and weeds, indicating that the newest trend is accepting that we have to eat what there is to eat.
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