From New York to DC, the flaky flatbread is being transformed into burritos, burgers, and so much more.
at age twelve. Having grown up in rural Fuzhou, China, it just wasn’t part of the cuisine. Then again, neither were scallion pancakes—or cong you bing, the allium-flecked, flaky-layered, and golden-griddled Chinese flatbreads that are a mainstay in Chinese restaurants in the States. Since her family moved toIsabel Lee and Luis Fernandez fuse Chinese and Dominican ingredients on scallion pancakes at Forsyth Fire Escape in New York City.
This is one of the tamer creations among a broader scallion pancake reimagining. At restaurants, pop-ups, and home kitchens across the US, chefs are rolling the hot cakes into burritos, burgers, breakfast sandwiches, and much more, with ingredients that are near and dear to them, Chinese and otherwise.
Scallion pancakes have long been part of the culture in China and Taiwan, where the flatbreads are commonly eaten as a street food snack. Their exact origins, however, are murky. Some have speculated that cong you bin may have been inspired by paratha, the Indian flatbread with a visibly similar construction; chopped scallions, a typical Chinese garnish, were possibly added to the dough along the way. By that theory, a busy international port city like Shanghai may have birthed them.
Whatever the origins may be, throughout China and Taiwan there are a number of popular riffs on this bread. Vendors fluff up crispy, golden hotcakes with a few deft hacks, slightly breaking up the layers into swirly mass called . In Taiwan, scallion pancakes are commonly rolled up with a fried egg, or braised beef shank, cilantro, and peanuts. It's not too far of a stretch, then, that chefs stateside have taken their experiments further.
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