Dallas has had a reputation for living large, an image built on oil money and ranch land. Today, the city is enjoying a surge of new development, new wealth — and a dining scene pumped up by the arrival of several high-end national restaurant groups.
DALLAS — The crowds streaming into Highland Park Village are hungry for luxury. At this open-air shopping center in suburban Dallas, they valet-park their Porsches, sport Yves Saint Laurent handbags, flit in and out of Audemars Piguet and pause for brunch at Sadelle’s, the fancy new deli from Major Food Group in New York.
“I have gotten calls from every single restaurant group in the country,” said Stephen Summers, whose family owns Highland Park Village. He added: “Every group you can think of, from Los Angeles to New York City to international groups, seems to want to be in Dallas.”The pandemic spurred many Americans to move to places like Miami and San Antonio, where the weather was warmer and COVID restrictions were looser.
“You have no idea the velocity of spending that happens in that market,” said Julie Macklowe, the founder of the Macklowe American Single Malt Whiskey, which sells for $350 to $400 a shot in numerous Dallas restaurants. “It is like the U.S.’s version of Dubai.” At Monarch, “we have a whole king crab that serves eight people and it is $1,000,” Winn said. Dallas diners “will show up and spend that.”
“If we are headed toward a world where the highest-end dining is just as chain-ified as the most basic fast food,” he said, “it’s going to be harder for Dallas to maintain any sort of distinction or culinary character.” A few years ago, Dallas wasn’t even on the radar of New York restaurateur Eugene Remm. At the urging of a colleague, he visited in 2021 and was surprised to find dining rooms that were packed nightly.
Not every national restaurant group succeeds here. Chef Tom Colicchio closed his Dallas location of Craft in 2012. Il Mulino, an Italian import from New York City, shuttered in 2006 after just two years in business. “If the name meant that much to them, at the end of the day I was happy to compromise,” said Barsotti, who said he could not disclose the terms of the deal.
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