Finally, a broccoli salad that doesn't suck.
I just finished a conversation with my colleagues about our editorial banned word list. I love adding irritating words and phrases to it, but Miranda, our copy chief, is more measured. She prefers to discourage the use of certain forms of language without banning them outright. I respect that, but, you know, it just feels so good to swing the ban hammer.
Think about it: When is the last time you looked at raw broccoli florets on a crudités platter and got excited? I'd be willing to bet you reached for the carrot, the celery, and the cucumber stick long before you relented and reluctantly dunked a piece of broccoli in the onion dip., the florets lack a clean, crisp bite. All their tiny little flower buds create a crumbly, dry sensation in your mouth when you chew, as they break apart into thousands of little grassy beads.
That's easy to do with the florets, since their tightly bundled form means they can soak up and retain moisture, almost like a sponge. I've played with this idea a bit, blanching them in a more flavorful liquid like dashi. It works, and it's not at all a bad idea, particularly if you use the dashi later for something like miso soup. But it is just fussy enough that I decided against calling for it in my recipe here, choosing to blanch the broccoli in plain salted water instead.
I cut the florets into small pieces and blanch them for a minute, immediately transferring them to an ice bath to chill, which helps preserve a lingering trace of rawness and that great bright green color.
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