Consistency is one of the hardest acts to pull off. It’s one thing to make an ascent, to reach heights to which others aspire, it’s quite another to maintain those standards over a prolonged period of time.
And yet the Lion + Pheasant, at Shrewsbury, has done just that. Over a period of years, it’s retained two AA rosettes, making it one of the better restaurants in Shropshire. It’s forged close links with producers, managed to provide effective training to new recruits, and employed a number of well-regarded chefs who’ve sought to excel as they’ve created seasonal menus that showcase impressive local flavours.
The two people who deserve considerable credit for the venue’s success are Jim Littler and Rachel Chidlow, who breathed new life into the venue.The one-time stop-off on the coach route from London to Ireland, had ceased operations in the hospitality trade and it was being used as a depot for a car parts dealer.
Dorothy took ownership in 2009 and asked her daughter, Rachel, a Dublin-based interior designer, to give it new life once more. That, however, is what the Lion + Pheasant has done and it remains among the upper echelon on Shropshire’s dining scene. I visited for a mid-week supper and was greeted with a smile. First impressions count, no matter how many times a customer has visited a restaurant, and the youthful team were keen and eager to please. That, no doubt, stems from good training and good leadership at the top, where an investment is made to ensure team members master the basics.
The main was just as good. Roast Corbett’s duck was pleasing pink with skin that had a little crunch, though was still a little fatty. The meat had been well-seasoned, rested adequately and it was served with a crisp, herb hash potato, that offered great texture and bags of flavour. A glazed parsnip had echoes of Christmas while a balsamic roasted plum brought the dish together, offered an intoxicating mix of acidulation and sweetness.
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