As the country reopens to travel, now is the best time to explore the Tokaido, a major road that inspired humorous manga-like travel guides and one of Japan’s most famous artworks
. The hugely influential series captures a moment from each of the 53 post stations and the Tokaido’s start and end points in Edo and Kyoto.
In this case, the Mariko sign shows two male travelers at a solitary thatched teashop being served by a lady carrying a baby on her back. The current Choji-ya is also thatched and rustic inside, but these days the former post station of Mariko is no longer a speck punctuating the countryside. Instead, it’s a quiet, almost rural part of the suburbs of Shizuoka city, stretched out along the original Tokaido route.Photograph by Azman Jaka, Getty ImagesPlease be respectful of copyright.
Following what would’ve been the Tokaido route east from Mariko toward Tokyo, you encounter other faces of Japan. Shizuoka is a lively regional city, which then gives way to a mix of scenic coastal trails through hillside citrus groves and pockets of concrete sprawl, where the modern Tokaido train line and Tokaido expressway drown out the sound of the ocean.
The closest the Tokaido comes to a nature trail is along the Hakone Hachiri section, which runs for roughly 20 miles between the city of Mishima in eastern Shizuoka and the castle town of Odawara in Kanagawa Prefecture .
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