Mushroom sauce was always there, somewhere, on every restaurant menu. Sometimes, it even had mushrooms in it. But I wouldn’t put money on that.
In hotel dining rooms, steakhouses and a million other eateries, mushroom sauce has been offered with a steak, sometimes with chicken or veal, even fish on occasion, for what seems like forever. Nine times out of 10, it arrived draped over your steak as if the chef was ashamed of what lay underneath his gloopy, flour-thickened “sauce”; a “sauce” unworthy even of the word.
If there’s one thing that has me red in the face at any restaurant and frothing at the bit, it’s a bad mushroom sauce. The kind of mushroom sauce in which the taste of flour dominates any remote vestige of hope that a mushroom, any mushroom, even one mushroom, had ever been within a city block of the kitchen where that sauce was “made”.
Also, the amount of flour used to thicken a sauce should be sparing; only as much as it takes to thicken it a little. Reduction during that cooking time also thickens it. And you don’t want a gloop; a good sauce remains reasonably runny, even if somewhat thickened. But does it even need flour? A mushroom sauce doesn’t have to have any flour in it at all. In a perfect world, all mushroom sauces would be made with love and thickened only with a little cream after the essentials in the pan have first been cooked down with wine, and then leavened with, say, a little brandy or sherry. Then, with cream added, and seasoning, to finish it off gently for a few minutes while cream melds into it and lends it a lustrous finish.
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