A trio of chefs left high-end kitchens during the pandemic to open their own casual restaurants — and they all flocked to chicken.
, the scrappy takeout counter in Washington’s Shaw neighborhood where Taddesse is frying up cuts of craggy, spicy, bone-in chicken, toques and tournées are a distant memory.
Eric Huang similarly worked at prestigious kitchens in Manhattan. In early 2020, Huang quit his job at Eleven Madison Park to open his own fine-dining restaurant. When the pandemic shut down restaurants across New York City a few months later, Huang set aside his plans. He started a ghost kitchen in Queens called Pecking House based on five-spice-seasoned fried chicken generously basted with Tianjin chile oil — ingredients in his family’s Chinese restaurant pantry.
David Portalatin, the vice president and food industry adviser at Circana , estimates that Americans eat about 8.6 billion servings of fried chicken in restaurants annually, a figure that includes everything from bone-in birds to nuggets. “The American consumer absolutely loves fried chicken,” Portalatin says.
When the business of making and selling fried chicken has been replicated for more than a century, as it has in America, what else is there to do? Riff. “It’s really smart to say, ‘Let’s use something that people already are familiar with and put our own spin on it,’” says Williams-Forson.
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