Philo disappeared from fashion in late 2017, when she resigned from her post as the creative director of Celine. Her eponymous line celebrates the beauty of aging.
If any designer can do it, it’s Phoebe Philo. The beloved Brit launched her eponymous brand Monday, and the 150 looks that debuted on a bare-bones website suggest that a high-fashion designer has finally articulated how wonderful, powerful and interesting it is to age.Philo disappeared from fashion in late 2017, when she resigned from her post as the creative director of Celine. Her phantom presence has loomed over women’s wardrobes ever since.
It was elitist, yes — a look predicated on the subtle understanding of the few versus telegraphing values about your bank account, position of power or sexual confidence to whoever passed you on the street. And it was certainly expensive, meaning that as much as it spoke to women, it spoke to ones with a lot of money.
Beneath the familiarity is a message that isn’t radical, per se, but is provocative: to be sophisticated — to be older — is a powerful thing. Aging isSo little is known about Philo, who is 50; she keeps her private life exactly that. But it is hard not to see the trajectory of her work as autobiographical — not as sweeping statements about her life events, but in the small changes in our bodies and minds, and how we spend our time, as we grow.
But, of course, the kind of woman who’d wear this stuff wouldn’t care about that. These clothes speak to someone who’s seasoned in life and on top of the world. She’s treating herself. She knows she’s worth it. She’s probably running a company or even started and sold one. These are clothes that, in a world that fetishizes youth and seems to chuck away women after 35, reveal that middle and late age are actually pretty great.
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