Everything about this new dessert spot looks like fun.
here, were behind the Houston project. Both are Barcelona natives, and with the opening of their MAD restaurant in the River Oaks District, they conjured a jolt of the same Spanish modernism that animates the Roca brothers’ cuisine.The Houston Rambolesc sits between the restaurants Songkran and Etoile, across the plaza from Hugo Ortega’s Urbe. It’s considerably larger than the Barcelona shop, with indoor seating rather than strictly in-and-out counter service, plus a sleekly furnished patio.
A clear bubble dome at one end produces the impossibly filmy cotton candy that graces some of the elaborately composed ice cream cups for which the shop is known, the unusual house-made toppings matched with seasonal flavors. Think baked-apple gelato with caramelized apple, baked apple and butter cookies cut in oversize cubes; or make-your-own confections crowned with effervescent lime rocks, tiny candy stars, or hunks of guava jam.
Jordi Roca himself was in town for staff training when I popped by for a peek last week. I got a look inside the freezer case that holds the brand’s fanciful frozen pops — the most famous of which is a replica of the majestic Roca family nose. I spotted the bars shaped like tiered birthday cakes, which come in a milk chocolate and spiced tea version, or a raspberry, white chocolate and yogurt flavor.
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