Willis Chun was barely a toddler when his father, Wah Chun, the owner of Chan’s Chinese Cottage, would dress him up in a suit and bowtie to bring him to the...
A photograh on display during The Dallas Asian American Historical Society's opening of "Leftover: The Enduring Legacy of Chinese Cuisine in Dallas" at Wilson House in Dallas, TX, on Jul 7, 2023.
Chun knows some people today might roll their eyes at some of the Chinese cuisine his father’s restaurant served, written off as “Americanized” or stripped of authenticity; it’s a theme he’s had to grapple with his own Asian American identity.A quick Google search of dishes commonly served at Chinese American restaurants like chop suey and General Tso’s chicken reveals a mix of origin stories, some of which are more culinary myth than historical fact.
“We wanted to challenge people’s notions of who or what gets to be considered Asian enough or American enough,” she says.On one of the walls of the exhibition hangs a tapestry showing, in part, the history of Chinese Americans in Texas. History that dates back to the 1870s, when the first people of Chinese descent came to the state as railroad workers.
Michael Yee, who attended a private opening of the exhibition along with Jung and other families whose histories were featured, says he has a new appreciation for how people like his grandfather, who owned and operated the Lim Yee Cafe in Old East Dallas, created a community in North Texas.That community is at the heart of the exhibition, Drenka says. It’s not just an exhibition about Chinese food, it’s about the people and the identities connected to it.
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