The 'Mi Cocina' author and second-generation Mexican American finds a personal and culinary connection to Mexico
When I was a teenager, my grandfather Agustín Flores Castruita would call me every Saturday morning to let me know exactly which church festivals he would be hitting up that day.
What I did understand, though, is that I always felt more connected to the people in Mexico than the people in the United States. Mexico was where I wasn’t the only brown person in the room, where I was surrounded by people who looked and thought and talked like me, who loved the same food I did and who didn’t consider me a foreigner.
In the United States, cookbooks and recipes written by people of color are often labeled “authentic” as a marketing superlative. When I started researching the cuisine of Mexico, I fully bought into that notion and believed that I would find one true version of each dish. I’d drive into a new town and order the same dish over and over again at different restaurants, taking notes on what they had in common and how they differed.
In selecting these recipes, I wanted to offer some of the regional specialties that I love most, like the tostadas de mariscos from Ensenada — towers of seafood piled onto freshly fried corn tortillas and topped with spicy salsa, avocado and lime juice — or the sweet-tart mole negro from the Oaxacan highlands, made with native chiles.
Place the achiote in a medium bowl and, using a whisk, break the paste into small pieces. To the same bowl, add chiles, lime juice, orange juice and garlic and whisk until smooth, then whisk in 2 tablespoons of oil and the soy sauce until blended. Grill the fish, skin-side down, until the skin is charred, 7 to 10 minutes. Carefully turn the fish over with a wide spatula; continue to cook for 3 to 4 minutes, until the flesh side has char marks and easily releases from the grate and the flesh flakes easily. Generously brush any remaining achiote mixture onto the flesh side of the fish and turn over again to grill the flesh side for about 1 minute to cook the achiote. Remove from the grill and place the fish flesh-side up on a platter.
To assemble the tamales, unfold a banana leaf . If you have gas burners, heat 1 on high. Using tongs if necessary, hold the leaf at each end and very slowly move the leaf over the flame, allowing it to drag across the grates, leaving it in one place until you see light discoloring coming through the top. Continue moving the leaf very slowly over the burner until the entire leaf is lightly charred and smells very toasty and fragrant, about 3 to 7 seconds to see charring in one spot.
Carefully remove a tamal and set aside to cool for 5 minutes. Unfold the leaf — if the masa sticks, it’s not ready. If it’s not ready, carefully refold and return the tamal to the pot. Cook for 5 minutes more, then check again. If the leaf peels back easily and no masa sticks, your tamales are done.If you are using fresh masa, look or ask for “unprepared” masa.
This chiles rellenos dish uses dried poblanos, or anchos, which are pliable and easily stuffed without having to be charred or peeled.Well known in Mexico and the United States, chiles rellenos are most often thought of as featuring charred, batter-fried and stuffed fresh poblanos, but dried chiles are also commonly used. Dried poblanos, called anchos, are similar in texture and flavor to dried apricots but with a smoky, slight spicy finish.
Place masa harina in a pie plate or on a plate with a high rim. Working with 1 chile at a time, dredge in masa harina, turning to coat and packing it into crevices. Shake to remove excess; return chiles to the sheet tray. Repeat with remaining chiles. Meanwhile, place the plantain half on a small rimmed baking sheet and roast at 475 degrees until the peel is very dark, 20 to 30 minutes. Set aside until cool enough to handle; remove and discard peel. Set aside until ready to use.
Rinse and dry the pot, set it over medium-high, and heat the remaining 2 tablespoons lard until very hot. Carefully but quickly, pour the blended mole into the hot lard and immediately cover; it will spit and sputter, so an apron and long sleeves are a good idea. After the bubbles have slowed, stir, scraping up any fried bits from the bottom of the pot.
To assemble, use a slotted spoon to top each of the bottom chanclas with chorizo . Layer the avocado, the remaining sliced onion, lettuce, crema and queso over the chorizo. Top with remaining buns, spoon the warm salsa guajillo over the chanclas, and serve.If you can’t find the suggested rolls, look for ones that are soft, with a thin crust and a stretchy texture that will absorb the moisture yet hold their shape.
Adjust the heat as necessary to maintain the temperature and working in batches, fry the tortilla strips, stirring frequently, until deep golden brown and crispy, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to the paper-towel lined sheet tray and sprinkle with salt. Continue with remaining tortilla strips. Divide the dough into 10 balls about . Arrange on a sheet pan and keep covered with a damp kitchen towel while you press and fill the empanadas.
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