Erdem Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear collection, runway looks, beauty, models, and reviews.
There was a point in the Erdem show where a series of muted fleurs de nuit jacquard dresses seemed to disintegrate before your eyes, the threads of their hems unraveling into fringes that wrapped around the models’ ankles like spiderwebs. It was the most exquisite moment of the designer’s darkest and most unnerving collection to date, and one of his most ravishing ever.
Nearly a century before terms like “non-binary” and “fluid” would be added to our gender-oriented vocabularies, artists like these were cross-dressing and opening Germany’s first lesbian bars amid the looming gloom of war and extreme conservatism. Moralioglu is an expert at mirroring contemporary waves in the motifs of the past: he didn’t need to say it, the parallels were clear.