A fresh look at seafood dishes for the home cook with inventive recipes from chef Aidan Owens of Herb & Sea in Encinitas: Winter Sumac Tomatoes With Muhammara, Sweet Glazed Seabass Collars, and Grilled Swordfish.
You wouldn’t think that a San Diego chef would have the audacity to feature tomatoes in winter, but one of the featured appetizers developed by Aidan Owens, the 26-year-old executive chef of Encinitas’ Herb & Sea, is his Winter Sumac Tomatoes. Once he explains their provenance, though, it makes sense. “We have a lot of people who come to our back door with different products, and this lady — Jennifer Dassi, who grows tomatoes down the street — brought some,” he recounted.
jalapeños¼ cup lemon juice1 sprig fresh dill1 garlic clove, peeled3 cups full-fat Greek yogurtSalt and pepper to taste DIRECTIONS 1. Preheat the oven to broil. 2. Cut and seed jalapeños and place them on a baking sheet in the oven for one minute, until heavily charred. 3. In a food processor, add jalapeños, lemon juice, dill, and garlic clove. Blend until smooth. 4. In a mixing bowl, add yogurt and whisk in the blended jalapeño mixture until fully incorporated.
red onion, peeled1 cup rice wine vinegar½ cup red wine vinegar6 tablespoons sugar2 tablespoons salt1 teaspoon mustard seeds¼ cup water1 tablespoon ground sumacDIRECTIONS 1. Slice the red onion and put it in a 32-ounce mason jar. 2. Boil all other ingredients. 3. Strain and pour over the onions. Marinate the red onions overnight in the fridge.
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