The beloved South Carolina chef, who passed away in April, taught generations how to not just enjoy food, but respect its true origins.
It struck me that during my first meeting with Emily Meggett — a meeting in which she was supposed to be vetting me, a first-time cookbook collaborator, to essentially write her remarkable life story and recount her life’s work — her primary concern was making sure I had enough to eat. She’d prepared a full spread, complete with fried shrimp paired with her lauded pink sauce,, and various casseroles.
Mrs. Emily grew up in a generation that vilified Gullah Geechee culture as being less valuable than white American culture. She rejected these racist beliefs, and instead carried her knowledge of Gullah Geechee foodways forward, educating a new generation of Gullah Geechee cooks. Mrs. Emily gave thousands of readers a vivid and exacting example of this history, which she and I detail in her James Beard-nominated cookbook,. We spent nearly two months together on Edisto Island, cooking and driving anywhere that provided insight into her world. And the resulting text, brought to life with input from Gullah Geechee oral historian Trelani Michelle, is the first Gullah Geechee cookbook to be published with a major American publisher, formalizing Mrs.
Mrs. Emily produced perhaps the most groundbreaking work to come from a Gullah Geechee chef in this nation’s history.
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