Elie Saab Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection

Elie Saab News

Elie Saab Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection
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Elie Saab Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear collection, runway looks, beauty, models, and reviews.

On learning that the conceptual points of departure for Elie Saab ’s spring collection were “the sultry African air” and “sun soaked savannah days beneath endless blue skies,” as this season’s show notes read, this reviewer will concede that they braced themself for what was to come.

Fortunately, what Saab showed today at the Palais de Tokyo managed to swerve the colonial nostalgia that many designers exploring similar territory have, perhaps inadvertently, previously invoked. Rather than romanticized visions of the characters one associates with the intrepid ‘exploration’ of the African continent, here the Lebanese designer’s heart-fluttering fantasy drew upon the wealth of its myriad sublime landscapes.

OK, there were a number of riffs on safari suits—as roomy linen separates or fluid crepe jumpsuits with shrugged-up sleeves—but rather than the default khaki, they came in the hues of fireball lilies, elephant gray and the ochre dusts blown across West Africa by the harmattan gusts.

Of course, given the source material, animalia touches were inevitable—and, really, Saab would’ve been remiss not to lean in here. Military jackets, sweeping chiffon gowns and cinched Saharienne coat dresses were decorated in texture micro leopard prints, though their potentially brash effect was tempered, reading more like a sultry purr than a campy roar.

Foliage, too, served as a key motif throughout, with lush rainforests lending their palettes to everything from structured, belted pantsuits to wind-catching caped dresses. The most dazzling translations, though, came through decadent emerald embroideries of palm fronds on a suite of glove-fit chiffon evening gowns.

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