A review from jayasax on how to turn one of America’s most famous fine dining restaurants into a sad desk lunch
. Like the restaurant’s pivot to a plant focus, Humm positions the boxes as a step toward a more sustainable future.
When Eleven Madison Park pivoted, many questioned whether the experience would still be worth the price. Some grumbled a menu without meat — and luxury signifiers like— could never justify such a cost, both because meat is more expensive to create, and probably due to skepticism that vegetables could ever be as good as a steak.
This became a recurring problem as I ate my way through the day. Rounding it out, $300 for two means each meal costs around $50, which made the yogurt about $25. I continued my breakfast with the “protein press” granola bar, which basically tasted like a Kind bar. But the bar and the four bites of yogurt sated my hunger, which made me think I would be able to stretch this food further, giving myself small injections of the luxury over the course of a couple days.
The intimate, careful pleasures of fine dining are gone with the box; there is nothing to distract you from what you’re eating , which makes for a lackluster experience, and one that obscures the labor involved. Someone did indeed make this salad dressing, season this soup, and painstakingly simmer the mushroom broth I’d later be using.
3. Say that a $300-a-week box available to only the most privileged New Yorkers isn’t going to fix our food system.1. Who cares?to the point that there’s no way to get an accurate read on what something “should” cost, and Dinner was indeed a glimmer of hope: Following the instructions, I made my partner and myself the wild mushroom rice, with peak seasonal morel mushrooms, rice from, baby bok choy, and a garnish of pickled hon-shimeji mushrooms. The broth, flavored with lemongrass and Sichuan peppercorn, was rich and earthy, the rice was somehow creamy but with every grain perfectly defined, and the mushrooms pickled in white balsamic and sugar gave a bright burst.
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