Dries Van Noten Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear collection, runway looks, beauty, models, and reviews.
Dries Van Noten retired from the runway after putting on his last show at the men’s collections in June, a moving swansong attended by throngs of his designer peers and scores of journalists, many of whom became customers over the years. Despite the never-ending game of designer musical chairs, Van Noten’s exit hits different. The big houses changing hands were launched decades ago ; new creative directors come in with a mandate to refresh legacies, not to replace a living founder.
In brief, this was more familiar than it was different. Van Noten’s lush colors, pattern mixes, and embroidery work were all in evidence, “converging,” as the show notes expressed, “along an optimistic path, extending from the earliest women’s collections through what lies ahead.” A bit of online sleuthing revealed that the fall ’97 show in particular was a touchstone, with its jewel tones, flower mixes, and blending of eastern and western codes of dress. Reissues have become standard issue in fashion recently, a reliable way to tap into our collective nostalgia and young people’s curiosity about the fashions of their parents’ generation.
Where it seemed to diverge from known and loved Van Noten collections was in its reliance on lingerie touches: a marigold lace bandeau under a khaki blouson jacket; the silky tap pants that accompanied a pinstripe blazer; a fuchsia jacquard coat; and an embroidered evening jacket. But hooking a new gen on Dries Van Noten is part of the remit now, no doubt, and so Dries lovers will have to get accustomed to change.
I was seated near the most committed of Van Noten fans, a woman whose closet is full of his clothes collected over the course of many years, and the look that got her camera phone clicking—a roomy floral jacquard knit vest over a chartreuse button-down and crinkly silver-blue cropped pants—had his trademark shouldn’t-work-but-it-does mix.
Spring 2025 Ready-To-Wear Runway_Review Runway
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