Designer Dries Van Noten cross-pollinated a rave theme with 'the surreal beauty of nature.'
returned to another parking garage for his fall men’s show, and on each level guests encountered a shopping cart full of chilled Stella Artois and an experimental electronic musician producing fizzing, burbling or buzzing noises.
Once up all the ramps, and then a couple of flights of stairs, guests finally alighted on the show-space proper: a standing-only affair with a drum kit on one stage and stacks of synthesizers on the other. Belgian musicians Lander & Adriaan, specialists in what the show notes called “sophisti-rave,” took their positions and proceeded to coax an impressive amount of sophisti-rave from those few instruments, adding a pulse-pounding electricity to the show. “The energy and self-expression of rave parties in the ‘90s, but mixed with beautiful surreal elements of nature” was how Van Noten summed up the collection backstage. His starting point was a book he read last summer about Alexander von Humboldt, a German geographer, naturalist and explorer born in 1769 and the man credited with having invented the concept of ecology. Van Noten etched both themes with restraint: The rave vibe was conveyed mainly by roomy pants festooned with pockets and straps; the nature theme via botanical prints and motifs — here green shoots forking off across cots and pants, there an eagle caught in flight on a creamy crewneck sweater. Occasionally the two narratives converged beautifully, as in a safari shirt embroidered with gold and silver garlands, or a silky souvenir jacket with a dizzying print of diving birds and exotic blooms.
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