Dissecting ‘merienda culture’ in the city

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Dissecting ‘merienda culture’ in the city
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Dissecting ‘merienda culture’ in the city | via FnBReport

But what makes a meal a merienda? The time of day is important, but so is the nature of the dish. As Gamboa Fernandez said, the afternoon meal particularly should be filling without crossing over to a full meal: that is, in our context, rice and ulam. An exception would be merienda cena, when the merienda is taken close to dinner and can very well serve as its replacement.

It’s a cultural practice that persists to this day. Venture into the outskirts of the city and you will find the merienda culture alive and thriving: The most prolific example would be the foldable tables set up in villages selling sticks of barbecue and cups of mais con yelo or an array of minatamis. In provinces everywhere, you will certainly chance upon local

serving their own regional fare, day-end local indulgences their regulars take in after a day of hard work.

While that may seem true at first glance, you need only look closer to see the opposite. In the same book, Fernandez also wrote about how because of colonization, everything Filipino is essentially American —down to our palates. Yet by that same argument, whatever American influences we’ve taken, we have managed to co-opt into something undoubtedly Filipino.

But what makes a meal a merienda? The time of day is important, but so is the nature of the dish. As Doreen Gamboa Fernandez said, the afternoon meal particularly should be filling without crossing over to a full meal: that is, in our context, rice and ulam.

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