Dior couture spring 2025 runway, fashion show & collection review. Maria Grazia Chiuri toyed with historic shapes and proportions in her most unabashedly romantic collection to date.
. You might think that seeing her work enshrined in such a venerable institution would have her thinking about posterity, amid persistent chatter that she’s plotting her next move after nine years at
Chiuri is fascinated by the past, however. As part of another upcoming project, she’s been doing one of her periodic deep dives into fashion history, and you felt it in her spring haute couture collection, which was a festival of diaphanous corsets, crinolines and fitted tailcoats at the Pompidou Center in Paris. On her mood board were works by Leonor Fini and Dorothea Tanning, alongside references to the classic children’s novel “Alice in Wonderland.
Chiuri incorporated the boxy construction of founder Christian Dior’s Cigale design in looks like a black lampshade dress sparkling with jet beads. The Trapèze line introduced in 1958 by his successor, the young Yves Saint Laurent, informed items such as a beige faille swing coat and a black taffeta baby doll.
She balanced the extravagant shapes with humble materials, embroidering tulle dresses with raffia, straw and horsehair ribbons, and exposing inner constructions with sheer corsets and cage-like skirts.
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