Inspired by he work of artist Marta Roberti, Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Dior Autumn/Winter 2023 couture show was effortlessly contemporary, writes Alexander Fury
The notion of the goddess is woven into the very fabric of the maison itself, too. Christian Dior himself always wanted to transform women into heightened versions of themselves, to ‘save’ them from nature, as he once famously stated. For his own Autumn/Winter 1949 collection, he created dresses christened ‘Junon’ and ‘Venus’ that framed women with cascading waves of sequin-embellished silk.
What was striking in this latest iteration was how effortlessly contemporary these ancient ideas could look, pleats cascading softly, sometimes outlined with pearls – ancient symbols of purity and femininity, which myth had were created from drops of water on the body of the goddess Venus, or tears of joy shed by her Greek counterpart Aphrodite
. The line is elongated, the silhouette pure, with a focus on garments cut to drape and fold around the body, rather than tailored rigidly to fit. The tunic, the peplum, the cape, the stole – although, of course, the sculptural silhouette of la Tailleur Bar, the female form divine, made an appearance.
We don’t really have the kind of rituals the ancient Greeks and Romans used to indulge in anymore: but perhaps the fashion show, with its formalised parade and inherent pageantry, takes on some of their characteristics.Here, Chiuri’s message was about the pure power of feminine beauty, made not only material, but real and really applicable to the real-life of women today.
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