The restaurant in the Hotel Captain Cook provides elegance and good value without feeling stuffy.
Like most people, I love the week and a half that Alaska calls autumn. The air is crisp, the trees are vibrant, and the darkening skies hold the promise of bonfires and hot drinks. And while birds and tourists are migrating south, this is the time of year when I migrate north — and reclaim the culinary delights of downtown Anchorage from the throngs of summer visitors.
The Hotel Captain Cook clings valiantly to its air of old-school refinement, and I’m here for it. The Crow’s Nest, with its nautical trappings and polished wood, is like a time capsule — but one that still gleams and sparkles. There’s a difference between old-school and out-of-date, and to me, the Crow’s Nest balances on this tightrope beautifully.We arrived early for a martini at the bar before getting down to the serious business of dining, and I highly recommend this step.
We were feeling splurgy , so we decided to share three appetizers because I am genetically hardwired to be unable to pass up oysters whenever they confront me on a menu and because I really, really wanted to try the bone marrow. My husband rounded out our appetizers with the lobster roll.The oysters — sourced in Washington state — were plump and briny but I did not like the roasted fennel sorbet that came alongside. For me it was altogether too sweet.
My husband’s black cod , on the other hand, was exceptional. Served with Parisian gnocchi, lobster nage and red mustard greens, this fish was cooked to glistening, flaky perfection. The gnocchi was gently crisped on the outside and creamy within, and I loved the slight bitterness of the greens, which offset the plate’s richness. I did, however, notice that he was less generous with this dish than with the others.A quick note: We are not sommelier people. I find them intimidating.
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