Glenn Martens brought the (safe) sex back to DIESEL in Milan.
If anyone still had doubts about Glenn Martens understanding the assignment he’s been given at Diesel, the fall 2023 show swept all of them away.
If he toyed with the idea with his low-rise jeans and short hemlines from the beginning of his tenure, this season he got quite literal by partnering with Durex on a capsule collection to be released in April.
Hammering on the three pillars of his vision at Diesel — denim in all forms, utilitarian inflections and pop aesthetics — as well as a fourth, the more artisanal touch he spotlights in his runway shows, Martens further developed the themes he introduced last season. The same raw vibe ran throughout in different forms, ranging from post-apocalyptic laser-cut jersey minidresses and hoodies to double-layered separates revealing prints and textures underneath, as seen in a shearling denim jacket or metal Diesel lettering surfacing from a leather biker.
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