Zeitlin’s Delicatessen and Kaufman’s Deli offer full set menus and a la carte options for Chicagoans who need a hand for Passover Seder.
Fernando Gomez prepares a batch of tzimmes, made with sweet root vegetables, at Kaufman's Bagel & Delicatessen on April 12, 2024, in Skokie. It is one of the specialty items they make for Passover. Bette Dworkin, owner of Kaufman's Bagel & Delicatessen, on April 12, 2024, in Skokie. The Dworkin family has owned it since the mid-1980s.
Dorothy Tayloe,of Evanston, shops at Kaufman's Bagel & Delicatessen on April 12, 2024, in Skokie. Tayloe said, “I love Jewish food.” This year for Passover, the pop-up and farmers market staple Zeitlin’s Delicatessen will offer a brisket braised in Dr. Brown’s Black Cherry Soda. The combination seemed natural to chef and owner Sam Zeitlin, one of many “future family recipes” upon which he has based his young business.
During a call together, Zeitlin and Dworkin discussed their respective menus, how the Jewish deli is changing, and their own particular likes and dislikes. Nostalgia is a powerful force and for many in the Jewish diaspora, particular foods are essential to a Seder menu.Dworkin continued the thought. “We all try to put interesting spins on what we’re doing, but certainly around the holidays … that component of tradition becomes very important to people.”
“One of the hallmarks of a deli is that it’s not only the food, it’s also the circus,” Dworkin said. “I think a deli should be noisy and chaotic.” There ought to be shticks and jokes with the counter staff, she added. Zeitlin’s yeast-free Seder main menu is 11 dishes at $60-$80 per person with no order minimum. The brisket is a centerpiece alongside other dishes such as roasted potato kugel, braised Windy City oyster mushrooms with dried fruit and flourless chocolate cake. Limited kosher and vegetarian options are available.
Oscar Sanchez carries a tray of macaroons at Kaufman’s Bagel & Delicatessen on April 12, 2024, in Skokie. Passover is easiest when the family lives in the same place, assisted by elders with community recipes worth preserving. These things are rarer now, requiring time and a lot of effort, which exhausts Dworkin after all these years.Zeitlin laughed. “Sounds about right.”But tinkering away at a few new items for Seder is something some millennial Jewish Americans still crave.
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