From our Spring Issue: The Schiaparelli creative director DanielRoseberry sat down with lacroixofficiel to discuss the state of couture in 2022. Read their conversation, below.
ROSEBERRY: Thank you so much for doing this. It’s really such an honor.LACROIX: I’m nervous because I’m out of fashion. This weekend I had to look at what is happening now. I know couture much better than ready-to-wear, but I was quite amazed by a lot of things. My very first wish was to be a stage designer. That’s why I was totally suited to the ’80s, which was so theatrical. I admire you—to live and to play this game nowadays is not easy.
ROSEBERRY: I’m 36 now. I was born in 1985 in Dallas, Texas. I think I’m part of the last age of humans who remember what it was like to be a teenager before social media. Facebook started my freshman year of college. I wake up every day and yearn to get off Instagram, to shut down all of my social media and disappear. Now, I gravitate towards fashion, movies, and TV shows where the characters are not holding phones.
LACROIX: I was totally crazy about the way you did your very first show, with you sketching on the runway and all the girls becoming reality. And you were on your computer—I work on a computer. I used to be a very snobbish dandy; I never emailed. I never did anything electronic. ROSEBERRY: It’s funny what you said about making people cry, because my mantra for every season is, “I want people weeping in the front row,” and not just my mom. I think most people design clothes because they love this industry, or because they love dressing women, and that is not me at all. For me, it’s about triggering a deep, deep, emotional response from people. Couture has become the mechanism by which we can do this.
LACROIX: Yes, of course. Sometimes it was a negative review, but they were right. I remember once Libération was so right about ready-to- wear that I sent flowers as a thank you because they opened my eyes. It was very fair. ROSEBERRY: When I was in college, you had McQueen and Galliano defining what fashion was. In my mid-twenties, you had the modernists like Phoebe [Philo] and Raf [Simons] come in and say what’s chic is reality. The idea of doing glamour and these peacock colors, it’s coming back, but I think people’s appetite for it was lost for almost ten years because of Raf ’s first couture collection.ROSEBERRY: I always say to the team, I don’t want to treat color like Raf treated color.
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