As Daniel Rose’s Le Coucou reopens, plattypants asks whether there’s still a market for this style of grand French dining
Daniel Rose, inside the dining room of Le Coucou, which reopened last week after its long COVID hiatus. Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland Since the great COVID-19 plague wave crashed down on the city’s restaurants, Le Coucou has remained closed — with no pivots to takeout or outdoor dining in sight — until last week, when chef Daniel Rose and Stephen Starr reawakened the dormant enterprise with a full dining room and a literal chorus.
Let’s move on before I get too depressed. What have been the biggest challenges in reopening this new version of Le Coucou? I’d say our new menu is about 40 percent different than the old one. During the lockdown, regulars were sending us these emails from their little apartments or houses in the woods: I’m dreaming of your sweetbreads … I’m dreaming of your quenelles … I’m dreaming of the leeks vinaigrette and the halibut with the fermented daikon.
Of course we all read your grumpy proclamations with horror, but I would say, respectfully, that fine dining is not dead, although as always, it’s evolving. The magic of restaurants is certainly not dead. In Paris, this magic is based on a familiar kind of communal, small-room intimacy. In New York, there’s probably a little more theater involved, but the magic of community is the same.It’s a question of style.
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