At Tranoï, Première Classe and Woman, international retailers were back and buying but playing it safe.
After a post-pandemic boom, times are proving tougher for emerging designers fighting for attention in a crowded market, according to observers at the recent Tranoï, Première Classe and Woman trade shows during. Nevertheless, exhibitors pulled out the stops on the creative front, and there was a wealth of new labels to discover.
“I’m not known for a minimalist style,” said Fitoussi. “My advice to young designers is to disobey, it’s their point of difference that makes them attractive… Their dichotomy is between making a product that’s accessible and ‘commercial’ just to survive, and expressing their true creativity.”Despite their quest for novelty, buyers were being cautious. “I’m cutting back a bit for budgetary reasons,” said Taylor. “Prices have gone up.
British eyewear label Cutler and Gross made its return after a number of years’ absence. “We decided to go back into fashion eyewear,” explained style director Marie Wilkinson. “We’ve picked up some new accounts and some we used to sell to. This is our big comeback.” That was the vocation of the Pintu incubator, from Indonesia, at Première Classe. Showcasing four brands, it was cofounded by Lakon Indonesia founder Thresia Mareta in partnership with the country’s French Embassy, aiming to preserve and highlight heritage crafts with cross-cultural initiatives. “Craftsmanship in many places is decaying,” said Mareta. “We can create opportunities if we work together. Traditional craftsmanship doesn’t have to be ethnic.
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