Couture on the go: The fall 2024 collections are sporty, anti-gravity, and nostalgic.
Fashion and sports, sports and fashion… The topic du jour carried over from Vogue World: Paris to the first days of the fall 2024 couture season where the work of the ateliers was dazzling and used to different effects. Team Thom Browne deserves a medal for endurance as they spent 11,000 hours on a single embellished jacket. Browne took things down to basics in the sense that he used muslin, or the material toiles that are the first drafts of a garment, almost exclusively.
A focus on deconstruction suggests that perhaps change is afoot, however. At Balenciaga, Demna threw down a gauntlet by focusing on the vernacular garments and materials he prefers within the rarified confines of the metier. And why not? Comfort and drama are the divergent needs of a modern customer. For couture to continue to exist as more than a marketing exercise, clients have to want to buy it. Couturiers have traditionally catered to their customer’s needs .
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