The wellness industry is booming with millions of people spending big on dietary supplements and beauty products promising everything from glowing skin to better health and a longer life. But behind some of the industry's fastest-growing products lie complex global supply chains and vulnerable species. We investigate some of the most controversial ingredients and whether the science behind the claims lives up to the marketing.
Britons spend an estimated £3.5 billion a year on dietary supplements with millions more splashed out on beauty products promising everything from glowing skin to better health and a longer life.
Collagen powders, krill oil capsules, bee venom serums and other natural remedies have become staples of the booming wellness industry fuelled by influencers celebrity endorsements and bold health claims. But while consumers scrutinise calorie counts and ingredient lists few stop to ask where those ingredients actually come from. A Daily Mail probe has found that behind some of the industry's fastest-growing products lie complex global supply chains stretching from the Antarctic to the Amazon rainforest and across Africa.
Several ingredients have been criticised by conservationists and animal welfare groups over the impact their production has on vulnerable species and ecosystems. These include remedies made from the skin of butchered donkeys to high street collagen powders to trendy krill oil bee venom and shark-derived cosmetics.
At the same time experts say the scientific evidence behind some of the health and beauty claims is far weaker than the marketing suggests with many products offering little proven advantage over cheaper or more conventional alternatives. We investigate some of the wellness industry's most controversial ingredients and whether the science behind the claims lives up to the marketing. Ejiao is made from donkey skin and is available to buy on Amazon despite the UKFSA Donkey skin products.
Promoted as everything from a beauty booster to a remedy for anemia and even a longevity tonic ejiao has become one of the fastest-growing products in the global wellness market. The dark gelatinous substance is made by boiling donkey hides and is sold in supplements drinks and confectionery. Ejiao is sold by third-party sellers in the UK via Amazon and other online retailers.
A recent investigation carried out by Brooke Action for Working Horses and Donkeys found dozens of ejiao products in the UK on the site. Listings include £19 for 100g of ejiao snacks which claim to be rich in nutrition and contain many vitamins. A 250g pack of ejiao powder was £19 while ejiao tea costs £16.58.
The UK Food Standards Agency warns products containing ejiao no matter what the source should not be allowed into the UK and recommends strict import audits. Experts also say there is little credible evidence to support many of the health claims used to market it. Dr Anthony Booker Reader in Ethnopharmacology from the University of Westminster says the quality of the evidence is poor and that most claims are scientifically unsupported.
There are a limited number of high-quality clinical trials to support its use for symptoms associated with some types of anaemia compared with placebo he said. But they do not show any superiority to standard treatment. Claims that ejiao can treat cancer improve cardiovascular health or extend lifespan are especially unsupported or exaggerated he adds. Dr Booker says consumers should treat marketing claims surrounding ejiao products with scepticism.
Despite the limited evidence demand continues to soar. Brooke Action for Working Horses and Donkeys estimates that around six million donkeys are slaughtered every year to supply the trade and warns the continent's donkeys could be entirely wiped out if action is not taken.
As China's donkey population has declined manufacturers have increasingly sourced hides from Africa where charities warn the booming trade is fuelling theft illegal slaughter and the loss of animals that many families rely on for transport and their livelihoods. Shark products Gulper sharks oil-rich livers can contain around 70 per cent squalene Walk into any beauty shop and you'll find shelves lined with anti-ageing creams serums and lipsticks containing squalane a moisturising ingredient prized for its ability to soften skin.
Many brands now use a plant-derived squalane made from olives or sugar cane. But conservationists warn that shark-derived squalene is still used in some products with deep-sea species paying the price. Among the most heavily targeted are gulper sharks whose oil-rich livers can contain around 70 per cent squalene. Growing slowly living for decades and producing just a handful of pups during their lifetime they are exceptionally vulnerable to overfishing.
The consequences have been severe. In some regions gulper shark populations have fallen by more than 80 per cent in the past two decades leading to their protection under the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species. Campaigners estimate that around one-fifth of the world's cosmetic squalene still comes from sharks. It takes about 3000 sharks to produce a single tonne of squalene and at the height of the trade an estimated six million sharks were being killed each year.
Wellness Industry Dietary Supplements Beauty Products Ejiao Donkey Skin Shark-Derived Squalene Gulper Sharks Conservation Animal Welfare
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