Collina Strada Fall 2024 Ready-to-Wear collection, runway looks, beauty, models, and reviews.
“We are the women of Collina / Our strength reflected in Collina.” So sang a chorus of angelic female voices backed by a heavy-metal soundtrack—sprinkled in with the most iconic parts of Britney Spears’s “Stronger” for good measure—that opened the Collina Strada show. “This collection is about being a strong woman or a strong feminine power navigating the chaos that is going on in this world,” Hillary Taymour said at her new Chinatown studio a few days before the show.
There was a slight sense of things being pared back this season, although the runway show was as playful as ever—some models carried dumbbells with squashes at the end; others wore fake-rubber muscle tops painted in matching patterns and colors.
The first look was a simple draped black T-shirt paired with loose velvet trousers in an abstract print in shades of black, mint green, and mustard yellow with a black ruffle cascading around the legs. The pants had a double waistband that gave the appearance of the top of a pair of boxers sticking out from underneath, something that Taymour said was an important part of her approach to product development.
Taymour’s exploration of muscles and their bulbous shapes resulted in some terrific pieces: Elegant dresses and blouses were created from pleated or shredded chiffon, their arms bulking with volume in a way that also brought to mind slashed Renaissance sleeves. Actor Gina Gershon walked in a loose washed green sweatsuit topped with a plaid jacket with muscle-y sleeves, and it was as if her swagger could not be contained by her clothes and was bursting out, Popeye-eating-spinach style .
Come next season, though, don’t be surprised to see everyone in the supercool “Collina’s Gym” logo’d hoodie, complete with a poodle lifting weights as its insignia. It looked very good accessorized with an oversized shredded flower rosette peeking out from a pair of matching sweatpants.
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