All-star smash burgers stand out at the new brick-and-mortar iteration of this former food truck and North Market stall.
When Heaggans and team reinvented Preston’s as a brick-and-mortar restaurant near my Clintonville stomping-and-feeding grounds in February, I was obviously eager to smash some suddenly-close-by Preston’s burgers.
Initial customer demand was frenzied, though, while the restaurant’s roll-out was sensibly slow.So, I bided my time for well over a month until crowds slightly subsided and lunch hours, and more menu items, were added. I still experienced hiccups: unavailable dishes; and more worrying, on two occasions indifferent servers dropped off cold, texturally compromised burgers and fries and never checked back. When Preston’s was on, though, so was a great-tasting food party. The new Preston’s occupies a largely blue-purple cubic room with yellow trim, wood paneling, a black industrial ceiling, a handful of simple tables and a small counter. While fairly spare, the space has a loopy, burger-themed, wall-spanningartwork, some plants, and a TV that often screens muted blockbuster movies while an indie-rock soundtrack plays. Fast-casual-style orders are made via tableside QR codes unless you’re dining on the nice little patio , in which case, you order at the counter. Either way, expect about a 20-minute wait for food. If hot food arrives without service issues , expect well-tested recipes, impressive ingredients and careful cooking to deliver indulgences you’ll want to rip into again soon. Unless you’re a modest nibbler, I recommend upgrading every burger to the double-pattied model . Preston’s classic hints at a Big Mac — if Mac had been reimagined by a serious chef. Its components: two Ohio beef patties ; special sauce ; lettuce ; cheese ; pickles ; onion ; and a pillowy, toasted bun. If adding a stratum of thick, peppery bacon to that sounds good — and man, is it — the pastrami bacon burger is even better. Cheese lovers who crave a sweet heat will enjoy the “spicy boi” yet more. It’s lavished with addictive house pimento cheese and slathered with house sambal chile jam.Three variously flavored, righteous fried chicken sandwiches are available , too. And you won’t find many better nuggets or tenders anywhere, especially if you’d like those lilies gilded with cumin-scented hot honey. Pork coppa is a fun, newer sandwich usually listed as a special. It conjured a McRib made with a hefty slab of good pork flavored like “Chinatown”-style spare ribs. Something without meat? Preston’s prepares a flavorful, sui generis fried mushroom sandwich . The conscientious company is also duly proud that most items can be purchased in gluten-free forms. Sides include a shareably large pan of excellent macaroni and cheese worth the stated 18-minute wait; McDonald’s-style fries that can be enhanced by a superior, nacho-style cheese sauce ; luridly purple, unusually dry, aggressively tart slaw ; fried and inspired, pimento cheese-filled dumplings . A limited but appealing selection of wine and beer is augmented by a couple cocktails. These include the rum-fortified, citrusy and refreshing Old Haitian, which was presented over crushed ice in a plastic glass . Current bottom line: Work-in-progress service aside, this newcomer offers reliably delicious fare — and you’ll find more proof of that in the banana and lemon curd pudding .
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