Christopher John Rogers and the Dawn of the Cultured Zoomer Doyenne

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Christopher John Rogers and the Dawn of the Cultured Zoomer Doyenne
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An optimistic view of the twenty-something mind’s ability to dart from idea to idea.

Even if you were not at the Brooklyn Navy Yard on Tuesday night for Christopher John Rogers’s Resort 2023 Show, you could feel the love in the air. It radiated through the Instagram images and stories and captions like “It’s giving full circle!” and “I’m deceased!!!” Every designer on the planet is trying to drum up a community spirit now, realizing it’s better to cater to a rabid few than to try to compete to make the same few things they think women want.

Rogers is a designer who makes a leap forward with each collection. He is confident, and a very hard worker. But truth be told, while his declarative shows have always been unmissable and he’s undoubtedly one of America’s biggest fashion stars, at times his clothes have lacked a kind of panache. He often talks about figures like the trash bag, the Pierrot, the preppy Southerner, and it would be a shame to say goodbye to any of that. And his color palette is always excellent.

“I feel like a younger [person], or someone with a more nuanced understanding of aesthetics and art and fashion and culture, can get it.” When I described his customers and fans as digitally savvy, he seized on it. “With being digitally savvy comes an understanding of the fact that multiple things can be true,” he said. He embraces the mishmash—that feeling that you’re scrolling through Tumblr and see a cool photo of flowers, and then you find a recipe for the perfect margarita, and suddenly you’re in a rabbithole of 1970s editorial images of crazy-romantic designer Bill Gibb. The feed brain, as it were.

In other words, Rogers is designing for something like a Zoomer doyenne, for whom embracing this feed-mind exploration that darts from idea to idea is a new way of being cultured. It’s probably the most optimistic view of the twenty-something brain I’ve heard in months.

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