Choripán—a smoky, paprika and garlic-spiced beef and pork sausage snug within a crusty baguette—is an Argentinian staple.
Lightly toasted bread adds crunch and absorbs spoonfuls of herby chimichurri and acidic salsa criolla.
Can a city smell like a certain food? What does it mean when it doesn’t? I couldn’t help but wonder as I lingered in the locker room after my morning swim. It was the day after the divisive far-right libertarian Javier Milei was sworn into office as the president of Argentina.
I don’t want to say that Buenos Aires smells like choripán every day. At least, not the way the morning smells like fresh medialunas . But, on certain days, when people gather en masse, the smell seems to permeate the city. And when it doesn’t, it doesn’t feel like a real celebration. I don’t know for a fact that there wasn't choripán surrounding the inauguration. I can, however, confirm that my gym mates’ day was sullied by the apparent absence of this unifying sandwich.
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