View the full ChildrenoftheDiscordance spring 2024 menswear collection:
Hideaki Shikama uses Children of the Discordance as a magnifying lens into subcultures around the world. In the past, he’s imagined a post-conflict world, studied BMX and the aesthetics of the ’80s, and the ’90s street culture of the Japanese city Yokohama, where he was born and raised.
For spring, Shikama focused on the United Kingdom’s hardcore music culture, more specifically, he explained over Zoom, through the eyes of a close friend of his that was deeply influenced by the London scene in the ’90s. Shikama learned a lot about the scene from his friend, but his biggest takeaway was the style of the time.
“The inspiration really puts in context a silhouette that is more streamlined and slimmer,” Shikama explained through his translator. His trousers were cut slim at the hem while still retaining the fullness at the leg that is in the Children of the Discordance wheelhouse.
Where the inspiration best met Children of the Discordance’s youthful, crafty allure was in a run of jackets and jeans patchworked with four different kinds of cotton in shades of beige and black. “The people who love hardcore are very DIY,” he explained, which is a quality that Shikama has imbued in his sustainably minded collection from the start. Also to note here were the band poster-like patches that Shikama placed haphazardly on some pieces.
There is something authentic yet deeply oxymoronic about the way Shikama employs discordance in his collections. He finds inspiration in youth-led countercultures and their often disorderly stylistic cues, sure, but his label is a study in consistency. Each collection uses the same design codes under dissimilar lenses, referencing subcultures of the designer’s own youth.
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