What Russians, Ukrainians and French people don’t know is that chicken Kiev was actually invented in 1979 by a British woman From 1843mag
As the Soviet Union disintegrated in May 1990, its leader Mikhail Gorbachev made what was, in effect, a concession speech to assembled dignitaries after a dinner at the Soviet embassy in Washington. Socialism in one country, the inward-looking dogma of the Russian Communist Party, was over. Instead, announced Gorbachev, “We have figured out we live in one world, in one civilisation.
According to the Russians, chicken Kiev originated in the Muscovy region of the old Empire. The recipe – for a chicken filled with butter sauce and covered in breadcrumbs – was modified to perfection in the 19th century by a Ukrainian chef, hence the misleading name. This story reflects Russia’s traditional policy towards Ukraine: to let it exist as a distinct entity, but keep it firmly under the thumb of its old imperial master.
The French, on the other hand, claim Russia stole the recipe from them – France being, in their eyes, a nation of superior cooks. But then French chefs have form for picking fights with the rest of Europe over the origins of popular dishes, including, audaciously, pizza. In the French version of chicken Kiev, garlic is added to the butter sauce.
What Russians, Ukrainians and French people don’t know is that chicken Kiev was actually invented in 1979 by a British woman called Cathy Chapman. Or at least that was the origin story told to me by my manager, when – on a more-interesting-than-usual day – the glamorous Chapman graced the aisles of the Ellesmere Port branch of Marks & Spencer, where I was working as a “customer assistant”.
Chicken Kiev may have lost some of its glamour, but it remains mystifyingly popular. Since the 1980s the recipe has been repeatedly reinvented to satisfy the changing tastes of consumers, the butter filling being replaced with exciting new options like bacon and cheese or ham and leek. At the time of publication,are preparing to unveil yet another variant. Let’s hope they haven’t been inspired by Morrisons, another British supermarket, where vegetarians can buy a “meat-free, chicken-style Kiev”.
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