It's most notable in the Lake District's villages where some of the country's finest restaurants reside. Call it the L'Enclume effect.
, with hotel rooms upstairs. The menu, under Matsunaga, a transplant from Germany of Japanese heritage, features an eclectic mix of British and Asian cooking . Ratcliffe, a self-taught sommelier, curates the collection of mostly natural wines. The couple hope to add a second restaurant to their village holdings soon—a small-plates spot with “more personal cooking,” says Matsunaga—and, eventually, a bakery and smokehouse. “We’re always looking for the next thing,” says Ratcliffe.
That evening I follow the ingredients from the farm to the restaurant plate, settling in for dinner under the heavy wood beams of L’Enclume’s ancient dining room. A sommelier from the Loire Valley with a gravity-defying mustache offers a glass of British sparkling wine, the restaurant’s own special cuvée. An envelope with a waxed seal is propped on a pedestal at the end of my dimly lit table, the evening’s long menu inside.
A signature Black Bull dish of salt-baked duck, Suffolk sweet corn, Oakchurch cherry, fennel and Scottish girolles Caviar cured in Maldon salt rests on a savory custard studded with oysters and glazed with beef broth. Barely cooked turbot reclines on chopped razor clams glistening with pine oil.
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