'I was eating quail since I was a child, but I graduated from quail to duck. For me, it’s a more fertile taste.' Read smallsalexander's GrubDiet
Alexander Smalls with his three-course menu: hot dogs, fried rice, and fried dumplings. Illustration: Eliana Rodgers Over the course of his 28-year-long career the chef, cookbook author, and former opera singer Alexander Smalls has opened a string of Manhattan restaurants, starting with Café Beulah in 1994, that served what he called Southern-revival cooking. In 2013, he debuted the Cecil and a revamped Minton’s, the historic mid-century jazz club.
I tend to put cinnamon with a lot of savory to give a kind of sweet, interesting flavor flare to it. It’s something I picked up when I went off to college and became very friendly with a girl by the name of Peggy Baroody, who was Lebanese. Well, her father was Lebanese and her mother was a Wasp. But she had grown up in Florence, South Carolina, where there’s a large Lebanese community. Her Lebanese father put cinnamon in their fried chicken, and I loved it.
I didn’t realize it until two weeks in. I haven’t been ready to be out there. I haven’t wanted to be involved. When Omicron broke, I was in Dubai. I came home and I stayed home, literally. But the other part is that when the pandemic happened, everything stopped, as you know. We all went inside. We might as well have been in a bomb shelter, except we were able to look out of our windows. I embraced it.
For lunch, I had smoked eel with greens, cucumbers marinated in rice wine, and a scallion-ginger-soy dressing. I get my eel frozen and already cooked, from one of my fish purveyors. It’s like smoked salmon. I ain’t smoking no seafood up in here. I’m a host. I entertain. But the thing is, I also entertain myself. I don’t do it just for guests. I am my own biggest fan, which is why my Instagram is full of dish after dish, because I’m up in here. If I’m working on something and then I need a break, I immediately go, “What can I cook? I need a break. I’ve got stuff marinating in there now.” It’s not like I need to cook anything, but I cook to live. I live to cook.
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