See Charles de Vilmorin's spring 2022 couture collection:
For the video showcasing his third collection on the Chambre Syndicale’s haute couture schedule, Charles de Vilmorin recreated the Danse Macabre by way of Tim Burton. Dating to the Middle Ages, the Dance of Death, as it translates in English, is an allegory reminding us that no one escapes the Grim Reaper, but De Vilmorin’s clip isn’t quite as dark as that.
It starts with youthful Charles in his bedroom science lab fiddling with test tubes. After his parents, fabulously accoutred in sequins and feathers, bid him goodnight, he pulls out a sewing machine and begins stitching clothes. A ruffled white dress, as square as a canvas and featuring one of de Vilmorin’s colorful, swirling paintings, prompts him to pull a skeleton model from a corner, and the young couturier is born.
Together the boy and the skeleton dance around the room, and eventually find themselves in front of a roiling cauldron joined by other dancers wearing De Vilmorin’s creations. Several of the dresses are embellished with fabric sculptures of miniature skeletons that dance along with the real humans that inhabit them; another is covered with more of De Vilmorin’s naive drawings, only in black-and-white instead of primary colors. One or two of the frocks go up in flames.
On a Zoom call from Paris, De Vilmorin described his process this season as instinctive. “I made everything at home by myself with fabric I had for a long time. It was not a time for overthinking, the message is ‘never stop creating.’” The internet started bubbling with talk oflast fall; it would reunite Michael Keaton and Winona Ryder some 30 years after the original. Mr. Burton, if you need a costume designer, De Vilmorin just might be your man.
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