Chanel finds itself at a crossroads following Virginie Viard’s abrupt departure, as a giant empty cage at its Grand Palais show symbolizes the current creative void. The spring collection showcased familiar Chanel elements Tuesday but lacked cohesion and felt uninspired. With muted applause at the end, the need for fresh leadership was palpable.
Nora Attal wears a creation as part of the Chanel Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Tuesday, Oct. 1, 2024, in Paris. Models wear creations as part of the Chanel Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Tuesday, Oct. 1, 2024, in Paris. Models wear creations as part of the Chanel Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Tuesday, Oct. 1, 2024, in Paris. A model wears a creation as part of the Chanel Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Tuesday, Oct. 1, 2024, in Paris.
Chanel is unquestionably a fashion juggernaut, and it will weather this moment of transition. However, there is no overstating the importance of the decision the house now faces. Chanel must find a designer who can reshape and redefine its vision for the future. The industry is rife with speculation.
For Nyong’o, joining Chanel is about more than wearing beautiful clothes — it’s about contributing to a narrative shift in fashion. “The message that I bring naturally and deliberately to the role is that things have changed. And we don’t want them to go back to what they once were,” she said. Hardison’s tireless efforts led to significant gains for Black models in the past, but the subsequent regression underscored how fragile those victories could be. Her fight for inclusivity in fashion serves as both a cautionary tale and a source of inspiration for Nyong’o, who now finds herself continuing Hardison’s legacy.
“I would hope that there is a message for little girls,” she continued. “My work as an actor and as an author, as a podcast maker, and now as a brand ambassador, is to change that by just occupying the space.” It is a powerful reminder of the transformative impact of representation; when someone finally occupies a space that was once empty, it changes the way people see themselves and the world around them.
Opening with a crisp white cotton dress, this deceptively intricate collection borrowed directly from childhood is the fruit of a collaboration with Petit Bateau. Chemisette dresses, sweaters, and twisted shirts became subversive statements — folded, wrapped, and twisted in all the wrong ways to create something utterly fresh. The result? A glamour that Prada herself called “dishonest” — a term almost mischievously fitting for Miu Miu’s rebellious ethos.
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