See every look from the CFCL spring collection:
Halfway through a preview of Yusuke Takahashi’s comprehensive CFCL collection for spring, the 37-year-old Tokyo-born designer pulled up a video on his iPhone of his three-year-old daughter. Wearing a mini version of the pale-pink and yellow knitted ‘Pottery’ dress, the stand-out hit from his nascent line, the pre-schooler was shown at a recent CFCL pop-up store event holding up her favorite pieces from the collection, one by one, explaining why she loves them.
In addition to being adorable, Takahashi’s pint-sized protégée makes a compelling sales assistant for the brand, which has established a clear identity and mission in a short space of time. Founded on the designer’s conviction that good clothes should be for everyone—an egalitarian philosophy that defined his former boss, the late Issey Miyake’s label, too—CFCL’s recycled polyester pieces have an engineered springiness that means they fit people of all ages, genders and shapes.
That B Corp status is partly down to Takahashi’s fealty to 3D-computer knitting, which produces seamless garments and eliminates waste. But it’s also due to the rigor with which he collaborates with suppliers, many in Japan’s Tohoku, Hokuriku and Kanto regions, whom he knows from his Miyake days designing menswear.
For spring, his fifth collection, Takahashi wanted to temper his cocooning silhouettes and zingy colors to focus on elegance. “Knitwear has a history of casual wear, it’s not used for suits or evening dress,” he said. “So for our first presentation for PFW, I was thinking about authentic elegance. I was looking at Yves Saint Laurent’s Le Smoking. But I wanted to combine elegant eveningwear with comfort.
In October, Takahashi will open his brand’s first store in Tokyo, with a second planned for next year. He already has over 100 doors in Japan, and has his sights set on expansion in Korea, Vietnam and China, as well as Paris. “People feel a sympathy with our clothes, because they are made for urban life,” Takahashi said. “Not so many brands focus on function—wrinkle-resistance, quick-dry, easy to wash and care for—as well as elegance. But it’s just the beginning.
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